KLEER can be fastened or joined using the same conventional methods as you use when secure wood to various substrates.

You can hand nail it, power nail it, screws it, or glue it.


Before fastening clear, there are a few important points you should know about.

KLEER PVC is a thermodynamic material.

It responds to changes in temperature by expanding and contracting. This movement is based on length and is almost entirely linear.

This is the major difference between working with wood and working with clear.



To restrict movement maintain the recommended fastening schedules using proper fasteners.

Also, it's always important to avoid butting joint pieces instead use a bevel joint to allow free movement.



Like other PVC products, KLEER PVC Trim requires a temperature sensitive installation.

First, note the overall temperature range for the area that you're working in.

The temperature of the material relative to the overall temperature range determines the need to create a gap as well as the size of the gap if one is required.


A properly fastened piece of KLEER Trimboard should expand and contract approximately 1/8 inch over 14 feet.

When installing KLEER Trimboard, and temperatures that are in the upper 3rd of your overall range, create tight joints with no gaps.



In these conditions, the material is already expanded - so contraction is a major concern.

When installing KLEER Trim board, and temperatures that are in the middle 3rd of your overall range, calculate the expansion and contraction for the length of the piece you're installing and leave a gap of half the recommended distance.

This will accommodate the expansion that will occur in warmer temperatures.

When installing KLEER Trim and temperatures that are in the lower third of your overall range the material will be fully contracted, so always calculate the expansion and contraction for the length of the piece you're installing and leave a gap that accommodates the total amount of expansion.

This allows the boards to expand in warmer temperatures with no binding or buckling.

The primary method for restricting the movement of KLEERTrim is to maintain an aggressive nailing pattern with a proper fastener.

KLEER Trim should be fastened at intervals no farther than 16 inches on center horizontally, and four inches on center vertically.

Always use a strong nailing pattern equal to or exceeding our recommendations.

The proper fastener for KLEER PVC is one that has sufficient tensile strength in the shank to resist the forces of linear movement.

Using 6, 7, and 8 penny stainless steel nails are excellent fastening choices. As a rule of thumb if you can bend the nail in your bare hands it's too soft to use on KLEER.



Most installation problems are the result of improper fastening, either too few nails or the wrong nail.

You can correct many of these problems by refastening using recommended methods.

Regarding bonding, you can bond KLEER Trimboard to a variety of substrates including other KLEER Trimboard components. PVC pipe cement and other solvent-based adhesives work very well. Contact cement, epoxy rubber based, and urethane based adhesives are all acceptable.

It is recommended those with moderate or slow setup times and always take care to follow the manufacturer's instructions and to test the application for finished suitability before proceeding.

Note: Proper ventilation and a clean environment are essential for adequate curing.

What are the common Fencing materials?

Welded wire mesh

Welded wire mesh, or welded wire fabric, or "weldmesh" is an electric fusion welded prefabricated joined grid consisting of a series of parallel longitudinal wires with accurate spacing welded to cross wires at the required spacing.

Barbed wire

Barbed wire, also known as barb wire, or, in the southeastern United States, bobbed wire, is a type of steel fencing wire constructed with sharp edges or points arranged at intervals along the strand.

Chicken wire

Chicken wire, or poultry netting, is a mesh of wire commonly used to fence in fowl, such as chickens, in a run or coop. It is made of thin, flexible, galvanized steel wire with hexagonal gaps.

Gabion

A gabion is a cage, cylinder, or box filled with rocks, concrete, or sometimes sand and soil for use in civil engineering, road building, military applications and landscaping. For erosion control, caged riprap is used.

Wattle

Wattle is a lightweight construction material made by weaving thin branches or slats between upright stakes to form a woven lattice. It has commonly been used to make fences and hurdles for enclosing ground or handling livestock.

Barbed tape

Barbed tape or razor wire is a mesh of metal strips with sharp edges whose purpose is to prevent passage by humans. The term "razor wire", through long usage, has generally been used to describe barbed tape products.

Composite lumber

Composite lumber is a material that is a mixture of wood fiber, plastic, and some type of binding agent. These ingredients are put together to form a material that is denser, stronger, and heavier than wood alone, a wood-plastic composite.

Common Wood and Wood-like Fencing materials?

Western Red Cedar

Like many of the woods on this list, western red cedar is naturally resistant to many of the ills that your average pine is likely to succumb to. Its beautiful appearance is prized by many homeowners, and its natural resistance to moisture, rot, and insect infestation make it a great choice for pickets as well as posts.

White Oak

A tough, hardy wood, white oak weathers well and stays strong when exposed to the elements. Many folks who keep horses choose white oak for its strength and the fact that some horses enjoy chewing on pine (though pine is usually cheaper). Oak does have a tendency to warp or bow, however, so this should be taken into consideration when the fence is planned.

Black Locust

Another favorite for those who keep horses, black locust is one of the toughest woods found north of the equator. Championed in particular for being an excellent material for posts, black locust fences can last for decades and decades without any significant maintenance needs.

Tropical Hardwoods

Some of the most durable and beautiful fence, deck, and outdoor woods of any kind come from South America. Woods like Ipe, Tigerwood, and Brazilian Cherry are extremely hard, heavy, and dense--so dense, in fact, that they must be pre-drilled (a hammer and nails just don't cut it with tropical hardwood). The most obvious drawback to these species is their price, which is significantly higher than other fence options.

The use of tropical hardwood has been criticized by some for being less-than-friendly to the environment. While it is true that these woods are harvested in tropical regions and then shipped to the U.S., the fact that tropical hardwoods are available from responsible sources and will need to be replaced far less frequently than many domestic kinds of wood provides a sound argument that they are actually a greener choice than many others on the market.

Pressure Treated Pine

Less expensive than the preceding types of wood, pressure-treated pine gets its durability and moisture resistance not from Mother Nature, but through chemical treatments and physical processes performed by people. Though once championed as the very best in outdoor building materials, pressure-treated pine is losing popularity among some sections of the population. More expensive and much more resistant to rot and insect activity than untreated pine, the chemical used to make it so hardy (as well as the energy use involved in the pressure treating) have raised a few eyeballs among environmentally-focused homeowners and contractors. This material's practicality should not, however, be ignored by any prospective fence-builder.

Plastic Lumber

While not technically a wood, the look of synthetic fencing materials is now closer than ever to true wood. PVC fencing can last a long time - many put its estimated lifespan at 100 years or more - and will require only minimal maintenance. Bugs don't eat it, fungus won't harm it, and it won't check or develop cracks due to moisture issues. PVC fencing is pricey (though not as pricey as some tropical hardwoods), and it's not actually lumber, but investing in it will give you a practically worry-free fence for decades and decades to come.

What is a Wood Shingle?

Wood shingles are thin, tapered pieces of wood primarily used to cover roofs and walls of buildings to protect them from the weather. Historically shingles were split from straight grained, knot free bolts of wood. Today shingles are mostly made by being cut which distinguishes them from shakes which are made by being split out of a bolt. Wooden shingle roofs were prevalent in the North American colonies (for example in the Cape-Cod-style house), while in central and southern Europe at the same time, thatch, slate and tile were the prevalent roofing materials. In rural Scandinavia, wood shingle roofs were a common roofing material until the 1950s. Wood shingles are susceptible to fire and cost more than other types of shingle so they are not as common today as in the past.

How long do wood shingle roofing last?

According to the U.S. Forest Products Laboratory, “...a good wood shingle roof will last up to (30) thirty years under favorable conditions”. Care and maintenance are the keys: The better care you take of your shakes and shingles, the longer you can expect your roof to last.

What are the Types of shingles?

Shakes

A shake is a basic wooden shingle made from split logs. Shakes have traditionally been used for roofing and siding applications around the world. Higher-grade shakes are typically used for roofing purposes, while the lower grades are used for siding. In either situation, properly installed shakes provide long-lasting weather protection and a rustic aesthetic, though they require more maintenance than some other more modern weatherproofing systems. The term shake is sometimes used as a colloquialism for all wood shingles, though shingles are sawn rather than split. In traditional usage, "shake" refers to the board to which the shingle is nailed, not the shingle. Split wooden shingles are referred to as shag shingles.

Modern shingles

Modern wooden shingles, both sawn and split, continue to be made, but they differ from the historic ones. Modern commercially available shakes are generally thicker than the historic handsplit counterpart and are usually left "undressed" with a rough, corrugated surface. The rough-surface shake is often considered to be more "rustic" and "historic", but in fact this is a modern fashion. Some modern shingles are produced in pre-cut decorative patterns, sometimes called fancy-cut shingles, and are available pre-primed for later painting. The sides of rectangular shingles may be re-squared and re-butted, which means they have been reworked so the sides are parallel and the butt is square to the sides. These are more uniform and are installed more neatly as a result. Shingles are less durable than shakes, particularly in wet climates; shakes are finished with a drawknife or similar tool which leaves a smooth surface that resists water penetration, and this in turn slows the softening of wood by microorganisms. Also, the method of splitting shakes rather than sawing ensures only straight-grained pieces (which are much stronger and less likely to warp).

Recycled rubber shake shingles

Modern recycling technologies have allowed the manufacture of rubber shake shingles, made mostly from old tires. These have the same look as a conventional wooden shingle but won't rot, curl, discolor, bend, crack, or take on moisture, and will also not allow moisture to escape.

What are Suitable wood for shingles?

White oak, black locust, honey locust, redwood, cedar, rock elm, yellow poplar and osage orange all are very suitable wood for shingle or shake wood and there is a shingle oil for treating them, or just plain will work. On wood shingles or shakes, most of the time a third of the wood is exposed, so it takes lots of wood to cover a roof.